I'd been dreaming of going SCUBA diving for a year. This November, the stars finally aligned and I found myself on a plane to the obscure Andaman Islands. I had no idea what to expect from this trip - I just knew I wanted to swim with the fishes. Literally, I mean.
The only Indian beaches I'd previously been to were Goa, Bombay, Gokarna and Pondicherry. From these, Goa has been the most synonymous with perfect beach culture - crowded or quiet beaches (depending on your preference), coastal food, party spots, balmy weather, vast open spaces, and, of course, plenty of cheap alcohol.
Tons of people and/or traffic: None of this is present here. You may encounter crowds at the jetty while travelling from one island to another, but the people seem to vanish once you're at the island.
Once you reach the jetty, there are resorts all along the coast line. These vary in pricing and facilities. We stayed at the Barefoot Scuba Resort in frame huts that cost Rs. 300 per day. Quite cheap, since some of the places go up to Rs. 15,000 per night. You can also rent a scooter at Rs. 300 per day.
The Barefoot Scuba staff are quite organised. We did the Discover SCUBA Diving programme with them, for which they took us to a shallow dive spot called Nemo's Reef near the jetty. This spot is visited by several dive centres and we found the corals and fish mediocre. We did see several of them, but not as good as when we went snorkelling. It cost Rs. 4,500 per person per dive, and an extra Rs. 500 for photos and a certificate, which we felt wasn't worth it. Barefoot claimed that the fish vary on different days, so maybe we dived on a bad day. It wasn't "bad" by any means, but it wasn't the best.
Oh, and there was a minor earthquake at Havelock! I was inside my hut when I felt it shake and tremble for a good 10 seconds. I was annoyed at whoever was shaking the hut from the outside. When people started yelling, "Tsunami!" I realized it was an earthquake. No lives were lost and we proceeded to have breakfast.
South Button Island: About 2 hours from Havelock, this uninhabited island is a brilliant snorkelling location. We saw thousands of fish swimming over beds of coral. Pretty, colourful, all shapes and sizes. It was glorious! And something I'm lucky to have done in this lifetime.
Tamarind Camp: About 30 minutes from South Button, this was our second snorkelling destination, with equally pretty marine life and corals. We stopped for lunch at Tamarind Camp and headed back to Havelock. It started pouring on the boat, and we were afraid we'd capsize, but the rain stopped and we managed to reach Havelock safe and sound.
Radhanagar Beach: White sand, blue water. This is a gorgeous stretch of beach located about 12 km from Havelock Jetty. Best way to travel here is either on your scooter, or take the bus from the jetty to Radhanagar and back. It costs Rs. 10 and the last bus leaves Radhanagar Beach at 6 pm, so ensure you don't miss it. We visited Radhanagar Beach twice. On the first day, we lazed on the coast and swam in the ocean. There are trees and a few makeshift shelters on the beach to shield you from the sun. But besides this, there isn't much else except for the sand, water and sun. On our second visit, we went to the restaurant at the Barefoot at Havelock resort, and it was so beautiful and peaceful, with its own path to Radhanagar Beach, we've resolved to go back to spend a few days there when we can afford it in the future!
Elephant Beach: While this is located right next to Radhanagar Beach, there is a 1.8 km trek to get to the beach. It isn't as easily accessible as Radhanagar Beach. You can either opt to do the trek, or take a ferry to Elephant Beach from the Havelock jetty.
Anju Coco Restaurant: Multi-cuisine, serves some yummy food. We loved their pizza and thalis. Visited twice.
B3: Located near the jetty, they served nice pizza, but not as good as Anju Coco. Offers a view of the jetty and its ships and ferries on the water.
The only Indian beaches I'd previously been to were Goa, Bombay, Gokarna and Pondicherry. From these, Goa has been the most synonymous with perfect beach culture - crowded or quiet beaches (depending on your preference), coastal food, party spots, balmy weather, vast open spaces, and, of course, plenty of cheap alcohol.
The Andamans isn't all of this. Some of it, but not all of it. Here's what you will not find (or find very little of) in the Andamans.
Party culture: The islands are very laid-back and while you will occasionally see musicians from different parts of the world strumming a guitar, beach shacks with thumping EDM and blaring music are missing. Expect to spend afternoons lazing in a hammock or under coconut trees by the beach, and evenings at restaurants by the sea or at a resort. Apart from diving and snorkelling, and other beach- or water-related activities, there isn't much to do.
Watering holes: There are several restaurants in Port Blair that serve alcohol, and you'll see a fair number of bars. But move further towards the more remote islands, like Havelock, and you will need to hunt for places that serve alcohol. Most resorts and cafes do not possess a license to serve alcohol. So you might be slightly disappointed if you're looking for this.
Tons of people and/or traffic: None of this is present here. You may encounter crowds at the jetty while travelling from one island to another, but the people seem to vanish once you're at the island.
What you will find in the Andamans:
Undisturbed nature: Whether it's a stretch of beach like Corbyn's Cove in Port Blair, or the unsullied blue ocean and white sand beaches at Havelock, or the dense green jungle surrounding you at all times, you will always be amidst immense natural beauty. This is visible from the moment you start descending onto the island when you see the eerie green water surrounding pale sandy coastline from the plane.
A bit of history: The Andaman Islands were colonised by the British, and briefly occupied by the Japanese during World War II. You will spot Japanese bunkers, old British buildings and several memorials dedicated to war veterans.
A bit of history: The Andaman Islands were colonised by the British, and briefly occupied by the Japanese during World War II. You will spot Japanese bunkers, old British buildings and several memorials dedicated to war veterans.
SCUBA diving and snorkelling: These are must-try activities in Havelock. I personally loved snorkelling more because it simply involves putting on a mask and swimming on the surface of the water to observe marine life in the ocean below you. SCUBA diving, while fun, is a lot more complicated as you need to carry a lot of equipment on your body - a dive suit, an oxygen tank, a regulator for breathing, an extra regulator to help a fellow diver if needed, a weight belt to help you sink, a pressure gauge, an air gauge, and your mask. Keeping track of all this, in addition to the comparative danger of being several feet underwater, made me lean more towards snorkelling which is so simple and fun. The one advantage of SCUBA diving over snorkelling is that you get to go deeper underwater and see more aquatic life, while snorkelling keeps you close to the surface of the water and you can see marine life for only about 2 dozen feet below you.
Ross Island: We almost didn't go here as it was raining when the boat to Ross Island was about to depart. I'm so glad we did - what a gem of a tourist spot! Old, abandoned British buildings covered with massive tree roots. The island has a spooky vibe and several spots where you can relax and look at the sea through the signature Andaman jungles. And the best part: there are peacocks and deer running around free! I felt like I was in a Disney movie.
To get to Ross Island, you need to buy tickets at the Rajiv Gandhi Water Sports Complex. Beware of agents who offer to take you to the island in a "speedboat" for Rs. 250. The actual ticket costs Rs. 100 and is easily available at the counter. And the island is so close by, you will reach in 15 minutes in any boat.
Jolly Buoy Island: It is a bit of a pain to get tickets to Jolly Buoy. The manager at the hotel we were staying at (Aashiyaanaa in Port Blair) got us a permit and boat ticket for Rs. 900 per head with the help of an agent. If you do not wish to do this, you can land up at the permit counter at Wandoor and cross your fingers that you get a ticket for the actual price (about Rs. 600), but there's no guarantee you'll get one, as there's a fixed number of people allowed to the island each day.
To get to Jolly Buoy, take the bus or your scooter/car to Wandoor Jetty, which is 30 km from Aberdeen Bazaar. The boat leaves from Wandoor to Jolly Buoy at 8:30 am and 9:30 am, and returns at about 3 pm. The journey takes 1.5 hours each way. You can sail on a glass-bottomed boat to see corals and fish underwater, or go snorkelling in these crystal clear waters.
If you're going to snorkel or dive at Havelock, Jolly Buoy can be skipped, as the marine life is equally rich at Havelock.
There is no space to keep your personal belongings while at Jolly Buoy. Do not carry a lot of cash or your cellphone here, since you will have no place to leave it while you're in the water. Carry only a change of clothes, and snacks to eat between breakfast and lunch, as there aren't any shacks or restaurants here. There are toilets and changing rooms and this is a day trip (no accommodation available) so you will return to Port Blair by late afternoon.
Marina Park: Located right after Aberdeen Bazaar, this park is large and green and has the ocean on one side. Very peaceful and relaxing for long walks and conversations.
Cellular Jail: Contrary to popular opinion, the Cellular Jail wasn't one of my favourite places in Port Blair. It originally had 7 wings, of which only 3 remain. The visit to the jail can be done in half an hour flat. Save this for your last day if you have nothing else to do.
Chatham Saw Mill: Watch giant tree trunks being hewn into planks and cured with oil before your eyes. I found the saw mill quite ancient - I'm sure there are more modern ways of processing wood these days. Still, this is a quaint place and is quite close to the main city and is easily accessible, so it's definitely worth a visit.
Anthropological Museum: Showcases the tribes that inhabited (and that still inhabit) the more remote Andaman Islands. Isn't amazing or anything. Worth a visit, but like Cellular Jail, save this option for later and go only if you have time.
Fisheries Museum: Several kinds of fish, corals and shells that the Andamans is home to. There are bottles of fish preserved in formaldehyde which are years old, so all the colours have faded to a dull brown. Can be skipped.
Chidiyatapu: A forest with exotic birds, of which we didn't see any, but heard quite a few. This spot is 35 km from Aberdeen Bazaar, and the sunset is beautiful. Go only if you have time (and energy - it's a long ride, and you will traverse dark, unlit forests on your way back).
Mahalakshmi Hotel: Found this tiny hole-in-the-wall about 2 km before Wandoor Jetty. Stopped by for the freshest idlis and coconut chutney that was being prepared at 7 am. The vadas we ate did not exist when we entered the place, and were made right before our eyes. Bliss! Look out for obscure little eateries like this in Port Blair - they will surprise you.
Once you've had your fill of Port Blair, head to Havelock. This is a diving destination with little else to do. The best way to travel from Port Blair to Havelock is by booking tickets on Makruzz, the private ferry. This needs to be done online a few weeks in advance, as seats fill up quickly. Makruzz is very comfortable, and much faster than the government ferry that also plies between the islands.
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| Me getting ready to SCUBA |
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| SCUBA diving - Nemo and I |
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| One of the resorts at Havelock |
Places of interest in Port Blair:
Corbyn's Cove: This is a pleasant stretch of beach about 5 km from Aberdeen Bazaar, the city centre. Easily accessible via rented scooter or car. It is well-lit and spacious enough to sit quietly by yourself or your group without being disturbed by other tourists. Buy snacks from a bakery in Aberdeen Bazaar and carry them to the beach and have yourself a picnic! Note: Locals do not always understand "Corbyn's Cove", so try varying the pronunciation a little. "Car-buy-ins" or "Car-bins" might work better while looking for the place. There are several routes to this beach; take the route that passes through Aberdeen Bazaar and Science Centre, as it's the easiest.
Ross Island: We almost didn't go here as it was raining when the boat to Ross Island was about to depart. I'm so glad we did - what a gem of a tourist spot! Old, abandoned British buildings covered with massive tree roots. The island has a spooky vibe and several spots where you can relax and look at the sea through the signature Andaman jungles. And the best part: there are peacocks and deer running around free! I felt like I was in a Disney movie.
To get to Ross Island, you need to buy tickets at the Rajiv Gandhi Water Sports Complex. Beware of agents who offer to take you to the island in a "speedboat" for Rs. 250. The actual ticket costs Rs. 100 and is easily available at the counter. And the island is so close by, you will reach in 15 minutes in any boat.
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| With Bambi at Ross Island |
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| Ruins at Ross Island |
Jolly Buoy Island: It is a bit of a pain to get tickets to Jolly Buoy. The manager at the hotel we were staying at (Aashiyaanaa in Port Blair) got us a permit and boat ticket for Rs. 900 per head with the help of an agent. If you do not wish to do this, you can land up at the permit counter at Wandoor and cross your fingers that you get a ticket for the actual price (about Rs. 600), but there's no guarantee you'll get one, as there's a fixed number of people allowed to the island each day.
To get to Jolly Buoy, take the bus or your scooter/car to Wandoor Jetty, which is 30 km from Aberdeen Bazaar. The boat leaves from Wandoor to Jolly Buoy at 8:30 am and 9:30 am, and returns at about 3 pm. The journey takes 1.5 hours each way. You can sail on a glass-bottomed boat to see corals and fish underwater, or go snorkelling in these crystal clear waters.
If you're going to snorkel or dive at Havelock, Jolly Buoy can be skipped, as the marine life is equally rich at Havelock.
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| Approaching Jolly Buoy |
There is no space to keep your personal belongings while at Jolly Buoy. Do not carry a lot of cash or your cellphone here, since you will have no place to leave it while you're in the water. Carry only a change of clothes, and snacks to eat between breakfast and lunch, as there aren't any shacks or restaurants here. There are toilets and changing rooms and this is a day trip (no accommodation available) so you will return to Port Blair by late afternoon.
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| Jolly Buoy Island |
Marina Park: Located right after Aberdeen Bazaar, this park is large and green and has the ocean on one side. Very peaceful and relaxing for long walks and conversations.
Cellular Jail: Contrary to popular opinion, the Cellular Jail wasn't one of my favourite places in Port Blair. It originally had 7 wings, of which only 3 remain. The visit to the jail can be done in half an hour flat. Save this for your last day if you have nothing else to do.
Chatham Saw Mill: Watch giant tree trunks being hewn into planks and cured with oil before your eyes. I found the saw mill quite ancient - I'm sure there are more modern ways of processing wood these days. Still, this is a quaint place and is quite close to the main city and is easily accessible, so it's definitely worth a visit.
Anthropological Museum: Showcases the tribes that inhabited (and that still inhabit) the more remote Andaman Islands. Isn't amazing or anything. Worth a visit, but like Cellular Jail, save this option for later and go only if you have time.
Fisheries Museum: Several kinds of fish, corals and shells that the Andamans is home to. There are bottles of fish preserved in formaldehyde which are years old, so all the colours have faded to a dull brown. Can be skipped.
Chidiyatapu: A forest with exotic birds, of which we didn't see any, but heard quite a few. This spot is 35 km from Aberdeen Bazaar, and the sunset is beautiful. Go only if you have time (and energy - it's a long ride, and you will traverse dark, unlit forests on your way back).
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| Sunset at Chidiyatapu |
Places to eat at Port Blair:
Gagan's Restaurant: We were starving when we arrived, and entered this dingy-looking place in Aberdeen Bazaar. The food was surprisingly great, and very cheap. Try their paneer butter masala and fried fish.
Mahalakshmi Hotel: Found this tiny hole-in-the-wall about 2 km before Wandoor Jetty. Stopped by for the freshest idlis and coconut chutney that was being prepared at 7 am. The vadas we ate did not exist when we entered the place, and were made right before our eyes. Bliss! Look out for obscure little eateries like this in Port Blair - they will surprise you.
Milan Bakery: Located in Aberdeen Bazaar, they have freshly-baked biscuits, puffs, and a host of other bakery items that are convenient snacks to take to the beach.
Annapurna Cafeteria: A vegetarian restaurant with some of the best veg biryani, channa masala and lassi I've ever had. We ate there 3 times!
TSG Emerald View: Had some delicious fish tikka here. Quite reasonable in pricing. Serves cheap cocktails.
Food stalls outside Marina Park: Available in the evening only. The yummiest (and most pocket-friendly) Indian Chinese noodles, pani puri, fish cutlets, ice cream, sandwiches, burgers and rolls.
Hotel Shompen: We heard this was good, but were unable to go due to lack of time. Next time!
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| Pretty boat garnished with black olives |
Havelock
Once you reach the jetty, there are resorts all along the coast line. These vary in pricing and facilities. We stayed at the Barefoot Scuba Resort in frame huts that cost Rs. 300 per day. Quite cheap, since some of the places go up to Rs. 15,000 per night. You can also rent a scooter at Rs. 300 per day.
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| My residence for 4 days - Frame hut at Barefoot Scuba |
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| Monster - resident cat at Barefoot. Nearly clawed me to death. |
The Barefoot Scuba staff are quite organised. We did the Discover SCUBA Diving programme with them, for which they took us to a shallow dive spot called Nemo's Reef near the jetty. This spot is visited by several dive centres and we found the corals and fish mediocre. We did see several of them, but not as good as when we went snorkelling. It cost Rs. 4,500 per person per dive, and an extra Rs. 500 for photos and a certificate, which we felt wasn't worth it. Barefoot claimed that the fish vary on different days, so maybe we dived on a bad day. It wasn't "bad" by any means, but it wasn't the best.
Oh, and there was a minor earthquake at Havelock! I was inside my hut when I felt it shake and tremble for a good 10 seconds. I was annoyed at whoever was shaking the hut from the outside. When people started yelling, "Tsunami!" I realized it was an earthquake. No lives were lost and we proceeded to have breakfast.
South Button Island: About 2 hours from Havelock, this uninhabited island is a brilliant snorkelling location. We saw thousands of fish swimming over beds of coral. Pretty, colourful, all shapes and sizes. It was glorious! And something I'm lucky to have done in this lifetime.
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| South Button Island (pic courtesy: Trip Advisor) |
Tamarind Camp: About 30 minutes from South Button, this was our second snorkelling destination, with equally pretty marine life and corals. We stopped for lunch at Tamarind Camp and headed back to Havelock. It started pouring on the boat, and we were afraid we'd capsize, but the rain stopped and we managed to reach Havelock safe and sound.
Radhanagar Beach: White sand, blue water. This is a gorgeous stretch of beach located about 12 km from Havelock Jetty. Best way to travel here is either on your scooter, or take the bus from the jetty to Radhanagar and back. It costs Rs. 10 and the last bus leaves Radhanagar Beach at 6 pm, so ensure you don't miss it. We visited Radhanagar Beach twice. On the first day, we lazed on the coast and swam in the ocean. There are trees and a few makeshift shelters on the beach to shield you from the sun. But besides this, there isn't much else except for the sand, water and sun. On our second visit, we went to the restaurant at the Barefoot at Havelock resort, and it was so beautiful and peaceful, with its own path to Radhanagar Beach, we've resolved to go back to spend a few days there when we can afford it in the future!
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| Radhanagar Beach |
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| Our resort - Barefoot Scuba |
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| Lazy afternoon - Havelock |
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| With Lady and the Tramp at Havelock |
Places to eat at Havelock:
B3: Located near the jetty, they served nice pizza, but not as good as Anju Coco. Offers a view of the jetty and its ships and ferries on the water.
Barefoot Scuba's Cafe Del Mar: We mostly ate breakfast here before starting our day, since it was right next to our hut. Their Nutella pancakes are a must-try!
Dolphin's Bar and Restaurant: One of the few places that serves alcohol. Not too bad.
Island Vinnie's Full Moon Cafe: Decent food here. Seafood and continental.
Shacks near Radhanagar Beach: Served some great pakoras for 30 bucks that we ate on our way back to Havelock Jetty after sunset. It was the smaller places that really surprised us with their delicious food.
All of the above (except the shacks near Radhanagar) are on the same stretch of road that leads to all the resorts. There are virtually no streetlights, so at night, if you dare, you can walk to the beach and look at a star-studded sky interrupted only by the crashing of waves. We did this for about 40 seconds before we had visions of man-eating tigers leaping out at us from the forest, and got on our bike and back to the (relatively) safe resort.
Dolphin's Bar and Restaurant: One of the few places that serves alcohol. Not too bad.
Island Vinnie's Full Moon Cafe: Decent food here. Seafood and continental.
Shacks near Radhanagar Beach: Served some great pakoras for 30 bucks that we ate on our way back to Havelock Jetty after sunset. It was the smaller places that really surprised us with their delicious food.
All of the above (except the shacks near Radhanagar) are on the same stretch of road that leads to all the resorts. There are virtually no streetlights, so at night, if you dare, you can walk to the beach and look at a star-studded sky interrupted only by the crashing of waves. We did this for about 40 seconds before we had visions of man-eating tigers leaping out at us from the forest, and got on our bike and back to the (relatively) safe resort.
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| That gorgeous blue |
Tips for travellers:
- We found Saro Travels (close to Aberdeen Bazaar) very helpful as they gave us a lot of advice about what routes to take, and what to see in Port Blair. They also rented scooters to us at Rs. 500 per day.
- Aashiyaanaa Residency Inn is cheap (Rs. 650 per night), and is located close to the Marine Jetty, so going to Havelock is easy. However, the rooms and bathrooms aren't the best - they were dirty and badly maintained.
- The locals are extremely helpful. Stop and ask if you get lost. All information is accurate: whether it's places to eat, directions, or things to do. Port Blair and Havelock are small places, so you will learn your way around within a few days.
- Wear a thin, long-sleeved cotton shirt or a sarong over your summer clothes, as the sun gets quite hot and will leave you tanned or sunburnt. Sunblock must be used.
- In November 2014, the weather was pleasant. Not too hot and humid, with moderate rainfall on some days. Sunset starts at 4 pm and it's completely dark at 5 pm, so set your alarm for 5 am to make the most of daylight hours.
- Carry mosquito repellent - you'll need it every day!
Things I loved most about the Andamans:
- The pure beach experience. No hawkers peddling their cheap plastic and shell jewellery, no people in your face all the time, no noise, no blaring music, no flashing lasers or blinking fairy lights. Just crashing waves, the smell of salty air and white sand between your toes. If it's a truly private getaway you seek, you will not be disappointed.
- No creepy men on the beach or in the city. I was pleasantly surprised to find no groups of men trying to attract girls' attention. The locals are very well-behaved. The vibe of the Andamans is friendly, and (as a girl) you don't feel threatened or unsafe at all.
- Life is slow and unhurried. People still enjoy walks by the sea and conversations with friends. They don't have malls, fast cars or a flashy lifestyle. No one's on their cell phone all the time. The only lights you see after sunset are a sky full of stars in a dark sky, because there's so little light pollution.
- While there are sections that are littered, the Andamans is trying very hard to cut back on plastic, so they promote reverse-osmosis water purification and discourage plastic bottles. Instead of polythene bags, most establishments use reinforced paper bags that can be recycled.
- You won't find glamour or glitz. Don't bother wearing designer clothes or makeup or flashing your expensive gadgets - no one cares. You will, however, find all basic conveniences.
To wrap up, do visit the Andamans if you want to spend a few days relaxing in the midst of serene nature, and if you want to experience the unparalleled thrill of SCUBA and snorkelling interspersed with quiet time to reflect on life and return refreshed from what is still one of the few paradises on Earth.
Book Makruzz tickets: http://www.makruzz.com/site/
Dive sites: http://diveandamans.com/page/dive-sites; http://diveandamans.com/plugins/upload/100/20110819_dive-sites.jpg
Detailed map of Havelock Island: http://diveandamans.com/plugins/upload/143/Detailed-Map-of-Havelock-Island.pdf
Useful links:
General information: http://www.andamans.gov.in/Book Makruzz tickets: http://www.makruzz.com/site/
Dive sites: http://diveandamans.com/page/dive-sites; http://diveandamans.com/plugins/upload/100/20110819_dive-sites.jpg
Detailed map of Havelock Island: http://diveandamans.com/plugins/upload/143/Detailed-Map-of-Havelock-Island.pdf
This is what elaboration means.
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